We have been back from South East Asia for almost 3 months now and it is so hard to sum up such a great experience in words-for me at least. My husband and I visited relatives, and it was especially special for my husband who left Vietnem at the young age of 3 when the country’s was quite uncertain. Reunions and homecomings are always very special, and I am so glad that we were able to do it.
Destination#1: Penang, Malaysia
I have been visiting my mom’s home town ever since I was a little kid. My mom lived in a shop house that is located in historic Georgetown, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site! It’s quite a trip for my mom to think that their everyday life as Chinese immigrants is now considered a significant part of Penang life and history. My mom’s childhood home on Beach St has been revitalized with shops and attractions to entice visitors who have discovered this little unassuming gem.
I have several relatives who still live in Penang and have seen it grow and change right before their eyes. The famous hawker stands have now relocated into food stalls situated in shopping malls, and high end shops are popping up to appeal to foreign visitors, primarily from Thailand and Hong Kong-a very different setting from what my mom grew up with. Thankfully the essence of the food has remained intact during the urbanization.
Luckily, what hasn’t changed is Penang’s love for food! Visiting only Penang gave me a skewed view of Malaysian cuisine. I thought that what I was eating was available country-wide, but after a bit of research, I realized that Penang cuisine are specialties of the island. No wonder it’s so difficult to find the dishes I craved here in the States! Try finding Hokkien Mee and Cury Mee in San Diego!
Hawker selling Mee Goreng the traaditional way
Won Ton Mee
Laksa
Char Kway Teow
Hokkien Mee
I learned that Penang’s culture and cuisine are strongly influenced by Chinese immigrants like my grandparents. They arrived after the fisherman and portsmen occupied the areas closest to the waters. My cousin explained to me that that is why the Chinese communities are close to the water, but behind the fishing areas. Makes total sense! There is a strong British influence in Penang. Former British colonization is most apparent in the architecture rather than in the cuisine.
To round out this melting pot of cultures are Indians for mostly practice Hinduism and native Malays who are predominantly Muslim. Halal approved establishments are plentiful around the island.
It’s very interesting to me that in my mom’s day, it was possible to be financially successful without even learning Malay. My grandparents’ and mom’s generations are proof of that. My aunts and uncles went to schools where only Chinese was spoken. My mom never formally learned how to speak Malay. Businesses were run using English and often times, Chinese small business owners were able to survive with Chinese-only patrons. Times have changed now and Malay is now a mandatory language in schools, although Chinese schools still exist. My cousins work alongside many ethnicities, using English as a preferred language. As much as Penang has unified, there is still a very strong and proud heritage from every group that still lives on.
My mom’s family in Penang take food very seriously. If you are craving a certain food, my Aunt Amy will know where the best hawker is staking out. We go out to dinner, and right after we finish, we’re off to the outdoor market for supper! This visit was no different. Within 2 days, we devoured bowls of noodles and more noodles. My mom who had just come back from my aunt’s house in southern Thailand brought back the best mango with sticky rice in the region.
I never buy trinkets, and in fact, we rarely buy anything while we travel. Exploring the markets are for the sake of experiencing the local lifestyle rather than finding that perfect souvenir. The exception is food, of course! I love going to the local supermarkets to see the different produce and packaged foods. I’ve also tried to find cookbooks in English that highlight the local cuisine. I was lucky enough to find a Penang cookbook in an upscale shopping center on Guerny Drive: Penang Heritage Food
I have yet to make a recipe from here, but even if I never cook anything from this book, I was worth getting it for my collection since Penang’s food is so dear to me. The photos, stories and history are wonderful. Now I will be able to share it with my friends at home.
Of course, I have inserted pictures to entice you to think about a visit to a little place called Penang where you can eat your way through traditional hawker stalls, delicious food courts and fine restaurants. ENJOY!
Nesting On A Hill 